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AquaSmarter™ Water Purification System FAQ

Many have asked us, We answered

AquaSmarter™ Water Purification System is an innovation. As part of the human nature, being skeptical about everything new and knowing therefore that education it is an important factor to effectively overcome the users common questions and concerns we make available the answers. Find below the most common questions specific to the science of the AquaSmarter™ technology we collected during the past 8 years.

Most Common Questions and Answers

Health and Quality of Life

Chlorine containing Calcium such as Calcium Hypochlorite will raise your pH however, Trichlor Chlorine has a Stabilizer which helps to maintain your pH.  Trichlor is available in both Tablet and Granular form however, we recommend using Tablet form as it slowly dissolves and only needs to replaced every 4-days.

The following a Simple Test to see if there is a presence of Calcium in your (granulated) Chlorine which will cause the pH in your Pool or Jacuzzi to Rise.

1.  Take a pH reading using your 2-Part Pool Test Kit.
2.  Place a very small particle of your Granulated Chlorine in the pH Side.
3.  Gently Rock the Chlorine Grain very slowly back and forth and
4.  If the Color Changes to Bluish or Purple color or the pH Reading rises, you've got Calcium.

We do not recommend using Baking Soda (Sodium Bicarbonate) as raises the pH very quickly and consequently needs to be used with small amounts.

Unlike most people who are unfamiliar with using this material in order to raise their pH ‘Slowly’, by raising it above 7.6 in ‘ambient temperature’ pools and 7.8 in ‘Heated’ Water to a high alkaline level, Ionization will quickly become depleted therefore, loosing the Effectiveness of the AquaSmarter Ionization Properties.

There are also side effects associated with absorbing Sodium Bicarbonate which result in metabolic alkalosis which is associated with muscular Twitching, Irritability and Tetany (tingling) and possible Hypernatremia (excessive sodium in the blood).

We suggest using a Calcium Based or Sodium Based Chlorine (in very small amounts) until the desired pH level is attained.

Onization - Chlorine - Ozone - Ultra Violet - Reverse Osmosis - Infrared, etc.

The Following Chart offers an in depth Comparison between most common types of Biocides.

 

Parameters Copper Silver Ionization Chlorination Chlorine Dioxide Ultra Violet(U.V.)
Concentration required at outlets Cu = 0.2 - 0.8 mg/l
Ag = 0.02 - 0.08 mg/l
2 - 4 mg/l as free chlorine 0.5 - 1 mg/l as CLO2 300 nm
On-site efficacy documented in literature Yes Yes Yes Yes
Residual effect Yes No More stable than Chlorine No
Time to re-colonization 6 - 12 weeks 1 - 2 weeks No information available Only works at point of entry
Temperature Residuals unaffected by high temperature Residuals decrease as temperature increases Residuals decrease as temperature increases Only works at point of entry
pH Elevated pH (>8.5) may affect efficacy Elevated pH (>8.5) affect efficacy No effect No effect
Disinfection by-product None known Trihalomethane (THMs) Chlorate and Chlorite None
Taste and odors None Yes Minimal at high concentrations None
Pipe corrosion Non observed Highly corrosive Corrosive None
Maintenance issues Routine ion monitoring
Routine inspection of electrodes
COSHH Applies
Concentration control and monitoring
Corrosion control
COSHH Applies
Concentration control and monitoring
Corrosion control
Routine cleaning
Efficacy issues None Does not penetrate biofilm
Loses efficacy at elevated pH. Decays at elevated temperature and over distance
Decays at elevated temperature and over distance Can only be effective at point of entry
Does not work with shadows

When the AquaSmarter Ionizing Capsules are immersed in water it slowly begins to release minute quantities of invisible negatively charged particles into the water. Within a period of only 24-hours, charged ions begin to infuse into the water to completely neutralize all types of algae, fungus, bacteria, and viruse

Another benefit regarding AquaSmarter Ionization Properties is that all the ‘Positively’ charged Ionized Particles magnetically attract pollutants that continually enter the water. The ionized particles in the pool keep the water clean and clear 24 hours a day, all year long.

Many alternative Water Purification Systems like Chlorine which is Highly Corrosive, require Electrical Hard-Wiring, Additional Control Units and Special Plumbing into the Tank’s Re-Circulation System.  Unlike UV or Ozone Water Purification Systems which Equipment offers absolutely no residual or lasting purification efficiency, AquaSmarter  when placed in a near Neutral pH environment, carries a Water Purification Residual for up to 1-year.  AquaSmarter  Ionizing System requires NO Electrical Connections, External Control Units, Special Maintenance or Plumbing.  Simply place the AquaSmarter  Capsulated System directly into the Tank and that’s it.

People today are becoming very concerned with their Health and helping to preserve the ecology of nature who are already using the AquaSmarter  Ionizing Capsules.  With the AquaSmarter  provides a Chemical Free environment that according to EPA Certification, is a completely safe form of Water Purification.

Today, there are people all over the World who are concerned about the Effects from Chlorine (see below) and are searching for ways of improving their health and have found AquaSmarter  System to be a 'Healthier, Safer, Easier and Less Expensive' Alternative to using Chlorine and other CHEMICALS and the best thing about AquaSmarter  is knowing that everyone can enjoy an Oasis of Clean, Safe, Potable water with ionized water.  The AquaSmarter  System is simply placed directly into the water tank and within 24 hours, Organic Minerals begin to dissolve producing "positively" charged ions. These tiny little ions begin to control 100% of all Bacteria, Algae and Virus free. Ions attract Dust and Dirt Particles and like a magnet, coagulates and precipitates them to the bottom of the tank without the need for a Filtration System.

Testing for the presence of Ionization is quite simple as there are 3-distinctive ways to Test for Adequate Ionization Saturation.

1a.  The Quality of the Water will maintain a Bluish Tint (not Turquoise or Greenish).
1b.  The Quality of the Water will maintain  a Soft and Silky Feel to the Touch.
1c.  The Quality of the Water will maintain  Sweet, Clean and Soft Taste.
1d.  The Surface of the Water will maintain a ‘Sparkling Clear’ appearance.
1e.  The “WoW Effect” when your Customer actually ‘Sees, Feels and Tastes’ the AquaSmarter  Difference.

A common TDS Meter (aka:  Volt Meter set on ‘Resistance’) can easily measure the reduction or presence of Suspended Particles as compared to before installing the AS System. 

Yes AquaSmarter Eggs can provide Alkaline ‘Ionized’ Water and only if/when the Water from which the Consumer is consuming…

1. Starts with Alkaline Water (7.6pH+) or,
2. Add a Pinch of Salt (1/10th of 1% Salt to Water Ratio and proportionate to the volume of water) and Increase the Capsule/Egg to Water Ratio or, 
3. Increase the Capsule/Egg to Water Ratio (Increasing Ionization Concentration).
4. Reduce the Amount of Water Volume to Capsule/Egg Ratio (Increasing Ionization Concentration).

And ‘Whalla, you’ve got AquaSmarter™ ‘Ionized’ Alkaline Water.

Are you aware that Ionization does not Survive (sustain residual disinfectant) in an Alkaline Environment..?

1. Alkalinity is the presence of a pH considerably higher than Neutral (7.0) which would present an Alkaline Environment of 7.6+pH
2. Ionization sustains an Electrical Charge within a ‘close to Neutral or below (neutral) aka Acidity.
3. Consider raising the pH from a Highly Acidic Environment like the Battery in your automobile by Adding NaCl (table salt), what would happen..?
a. Correct, the pH would Raise and the Battery would Quickly (depending on how much Salt you added) Discharge.  Why..?
4. AquaSmarter or for that matter, all Ionization Systems produce the Same Effect that an Automobile produces. Think of the Battery as a Swimming Pool or a Glass of Ionized Water…  In order to Sustain Ionization, the pH ‘must’ remain below 7.6 (7.4 is Ideal) and if the pH raises Above 7.6pH, the Environment becomes Alkaline thus Alkaline Water. 

There are two ways to Sustain Ionization within an Alkaline Environment…
1. Ionization Saturation by Increasing the Amount of Ions per given Volume of Water or,
2. Decrease the Volume of Water given the same Ionization Concentration.

There is also another Affect which can produce Alkalinity.

1. Begin with Water that is Alkaline (7.6pH+) or,
2. Add a Sodium or Calcium Based Mineral.

My ‘Scientific’ Opinion…

Alkaline ‘Ionized’ Water like the Ionic Foot Bath/Spa and most Likely, Alkaline ‘Ionized’ Water is simply, a Placebo                    

1. Maintenance of acid-base balance:  Acid-base balance in the body is maintained by two general mechanisms: selective excretion of acids or bases, and by the buffering action of weak acid-base systems in body fluids. Over a 24-hour period, the adult human eliminates the equivalent of about 20-40 moles of H+ as carbonic acid H2CO3 which breaks down into CO2 (exiting via the lungs) and H2O (through the kidneys.) In addition, the kidneys excrete perhaps 5% of this amount of acid, mostly in the form of H2PO4– and NH4+. Owing to their electric charges, these two species are closely linked to salt balance with ions such as Na+ or K+, and Cl–. The major buffering system in the body is the carbonate system, which exists mainly in the form of HCO3– at normal physiological pH. Secondary buffering action comes from phosphate, from proteins and other weak organic acids, and (within blood cells), the hemoglobin.

2. Disturbances of acid-base balance:  Deviations of the blood plasma pH from its normal value of 7.4 by more than about ±0.1 can be very serious. These conditions are known medically as acidosis and alkalosis. They can be caused by metabolic disturbances such as diabetes and by kidney failure (in which excretion of H2PO4–, for example, is inhibited.).Numerous other processes lead to temporary unbalances. Thus hyperventilation, which can result from emotional upset, leads to above-normal loss of CO2, and thus to alkalosis. Similarly, hypoventilation can act as a compensatory mechanism for acidosis. On the other hand, retention of CO2 caused by bronchopneumonia, for example, can give rise to acidosis. Acidosis can also result from diarrhea (loss of alkaline fluid from the intestine,) while loss of gastric contents by vomiting promotes alkalosis. 

The addition of chlorine to our drinking water began in the late 1800s and by 1904 was the standard in water treatment, and for the most part remains so today.

We don't use chlorine because it's the safest or even the most effective means of disinfection, we use it because it is the cheapest. In spite of all our technological advances, we essentially still pour bleach in our water before we drink it. The long term effects of chlorinated drinking water have just recently being recognized. According to the U.S. Council Of Environmental Quality, "Cancer risk among people drinking chlorinated water is 93% higher than among those whose water does not contain chlorine."

Dr. Joseph Price wrote a highly controversial book in the late sixties titled Coronaries/Cholesterol/Chlorine (available at amazon.com) and concluded that nothing can negate the incontrovertible fact, the basic cause of atherosclerosis and resulting entities such as heart attacks and stroke, is chlorine." Dr. Price later headed up a study using chickens as test subjects, where two groups of several hundred birds were observed throughout their span to maturity. One group was given water with chlorine and the other without. The group raised with chlorine, when autopsied, showed some level of heart or circulatory disease in every specimen, the group without had no incidence of disease. The group with chlorine under winter conditions, showed outward signs of poor circulation, shivering, drooped feathers and a reduced level of activity. The group without chlorine grew faster, larger and displayed vigorous health. This study was well received in the poultry industry and is still used as a reference today. As a result, most large poultry producers use dechlorinated water. It would be a common sense conclusion that if regular chlorinated tap water is not good enough for the chickens, then it probably is not good enough for us humans!

There is a lot of well founded concern about chlorine. When chlorine is added to our water, it combines with other natural compounds to form Trihalomethanes (chlorination byproducts), or THMs. These chlorine byproducts trigger the production of free radicals in the body, causing cell damage and are highly carcinogenic. "Although concentrations of these carcinogens (THMs) are low, it is precisely these low levels that cancer scientists believe are responsible for the majority of human cancers in the United States". The Environmental Defense Fund simply stated chlorine is a pesticide, as defined by the U.S. EPA, whose sole purpose is to kill living organisms. When we consume water containing chlorine, it kills some part of us, destroying cells and tissue inside our body. Dr. Robert Carlson, a highly respected University of Minnesota researcher who's work is sponsored by the Federal Environmental Protection Agency, sums it up by claiming , "the chlorine problem is similar to that of air pollution", and adds that "chlorine is the greatest crippler and killer of modern times!"

Breast cancer, which now affects one in every eight women in North America, has recently been linked to the accumulation of chlorine compounds in the breast tissue. A study carried out in Hartford Connecticut, the first of its kind in North America, found that, "women with breast cancer have 50% to 60% higher levels of organochlorines (chlorination byproducts) in their breast tissue than women without breast cancer."

One of the most shocking components to all of these studies is that up to 2/3s of our harmful exposure to chlorine is due to inhalation of steam and skin absorption while showering. A warm shower opens up the pores of the skin and allows for accelerated absorption of chlorine and other chemicals in water. The steam we inhale while showering can contain up to 50 times the level of chemicals than tap water due to the fact that chlorine and most other contaminants vaporize much faster and at a lower temperature than water. Inhalation is a much more harmful means of exposure since the chlorine gas (chloroform) we inhale goes directly into our blood stream. When we drink contaminated water the toxins are partially filtered out by our kidneys and digestive system.

Chlorine vapors are known to be a strong irritant to the sensitive tissue and bronchial passages inside our lungs, it was used as a chemical weapon in World War II. The inhalation of chlorine is a suspected cause of asthma and bronchitis, especially in children… which has increased 300% in the last two decades. "Showering is suspected as the primary cause of elevated levels of chloroform in nearly every home because of chlorine in the water." Dr Lance Wallace, U.S. Environmental Protection Agency.

Chlorine in shower water also has a very negative cosmetic effect, robbing our skin and hair of moisture and elasticity, resulting in a less vibrant and youthful appearance. Anyone who has ever swam in a chlorinated pool can relate to the harsh effects that chlorine has on the skin and hair. What's surprising is that we commonly find higher levels of chlorine in our tap water than is recommended safe for swimming pools.

Aside from all the health risks related to chlorine in our water, it is the primary cause of bad taste and odor in drinking water. The objectionable taste causes many people to turn to other less healthful beverages like soft drinks, tea or other sweetened drinks. A decreased intake of water, for any reason, can only result in a lower degree of health.

The good news is that chlorine is one of the easiest substances to remove from our water. For that reason it logically should serve it's purpose of keeping our water free from harmful bacteria and water borne diseases right up to the time of consumption, where it should then be removed by quality home water filtration. No one will argue that chlorine serves an important purpose, and that the hazards of doing away with chlorine are greater than or equal to the related health risks. The simple truth is that chlorine is likely here to stay. The idea that we could do away with chlorine any time in the near future is just not realistic. It is also clear that chlorine represents a very real and serious threat to our health and should be removed in our homes, at the point of use, both from the water we drink and the water we shower in.

With the realization that more chemicals enter our body through skin absorption and inhalation of steam while showering than does from drinking water. A warm shower opens the pores of the skin and allows a high rate of absorption of chlorine and other chemicals. The steam we inhale while showering can contain up to 20 times the level of chlorine and other synthetic chemicals than tap water due to the fact that these chemicals vaporizes at a lower temperature and at a much faster rate than water. Inhalation of chlorine and chemical vapors is known to be a strong irritant to the tissues in our lungs and a suspected cause of asthma and bronchitis. When chemicals are inhaled into our lungs they enter directly into our bloodstream and can have magnified effects versus ingested chemicals which are partially filtered by our liver and kidneys.

Chlorine was first added to a community water system in 1908 in Chicago and was instrumental in eliminating many types of water-borne disease such as Cholera and Typhoid fever. Prior to chlorination, many major cities had death tolls of 1 in 1000 people from Typhoid alone. Chlorine has been used to disinfect municipal water for over 80 years and has had some positive effects on public health.

In the 1970's it was discovered that chlorine, when added to water, forms Trihalomethanes (chlorinated by-products) by combining with certain naturally occurring organic matter such as vegetation and algae. In 1992 the American Journal of Public Health published a report that showed a 15% to 35% increase in certain types of cancer for people who consume chlorinated water. This report also stated that much of these effects were due to showering in chlorinated water. The National Cancer Institute estimates cancer risks for people who consume chlorinated water to be 93% higher than for people who do not. The effects of drinking chlorinated water have been debated for decades. However, most experts now agree that there are some significant risks related to consuming chlorine and chlorinated by-products.

How To Install

Simply, place our (3") AquaSmarter Capsule's into your Skimmer or anywhere where they can remain Submerged where water circulates. For Pools or Jacuzzi's without a Skimmer Basket, our Filters can be simply placed anywhere near a Bottom Drain.

The Success from AquaSmarter was built on the "KISS Principal”.  We provide our Customers with a Product that is, "Easy to Use, Inexpensive and offers a 'Remarkable' Difference.

The AquaSmarter Filters are very Simple to install, Very Inexpensive and is Easy to use.  Simply, place our  (3") AquaSmarter Capsule's into your Skimmer or anywhere where they can remain Submerged where water circulates.

For Pools or Jacuzzi's without a Skimmer Basket, our Filters can be simply placed anywhere near a Bottom Drain.

Orders & Shipping

There is a record of every order you've placed available in your aquasmarter.us account. You can access your past orders here: http://www.aquasmarter.us/users/myorders

You'll also receive a shipping confirmation email the minute we receive your shipment tracking information from our warehouse.

An order status of "Processing" means your order has been entered into our system and has been sent to the manufacturer... or multiple manufacturers, depending on your order. The order status will remain as "Processing" until we receive shipment tracking information back from our warehouse.

You will receive a shipping confirmation email from Aquasmarter.us the minute we receive the tracking information in our system.

If your order status is still showing "Processing" after 48 hours, it does not necessarily mean that your order has not shipped. It simply means we have not received the tracking information from the warehouse.

We accept all major credit cards and PayPal. We process our online payment though PayPal. Please keep in mind that we aren't able to split payments at checkout. We've partnered with PayPal to provide our ordering system the most secured and safe way to shop and pay online.

Pools, Fountain & Jacuzzi

Ceramic Pools are considerably more Comfortable to stand on as opposed to Cement/Marcite Pools. 

With AquaSmarter Filters, you don't (ever) have to change the water.

Accumulated Surface Oils are caused either from Bathers who 'forgot' to remove Suntan Oil before entering the Pool or your Swimming Pool is located nearby Heavily Traffic (Polluted Air) or located near an Airport.

In order to Effectively remove/dissolve accumulated Oil from the Surface of your Pool, simply mix 1-part Liquid Dishwashing Detergent with 9-parts water and using an ordinary Spray Bottle, simply Spray the diluted detergent over the entire surface of your Pool.  You can actually 'see' where the Oils are Dissolving at the Surface from the Reflection of the Sun.

The moment that your AquaSmarter Ionizing Filters are immersed in water, they slowly begin to release minute quantities of invisible negatively charged particles into the water. Within a period of only 24-hours, charged ions begin to infuse into the water to  Virtually Eliminate the need for Chlorine and other Chemicals for Pools & Jacuzzi's.

The AquaSmarter Ionization System utilizes an advanced process known as ionization, whereby electrolytically generated copper and silver ions are dispersed into a water stream for the purpose of Virtually Eliminate the need for Chlorine and other Chemicals for Pools & Jacuzzi's.  Once the Ionization System is commissioned (submerged), the concentration of ions builds quickly within the system, producing a long and stable disinfecting residual that is unaffected by heat, sunlight or evaporation. The disinfection action is attributed to the positively charged ions which form electrostatic bonds to the negatively charged sites on microorganisms and then undergo reactions at the cell surface, crossing the cell membrane and beginning the inactivation.

AquaSmarter was originally designed as a Water Conditioning Submersible Ionizing Capsule/System that releases Ions to eliminate all forms of Bacteria and Virus, E.Coli, etc.  Our Technology requires no electricity or special installation as it is simply placed into a Water Tank, Well, Cistern and most commonly used for Swimming Pools, Jacuzzi’s and Fresh Water Aquariums.  AquaSmarter Technology is quite effective for populations with a high degree of Bio-Contamination and where the use of Chlorine is either unavailable or ineffective.

AquaSmarter was implemented with the Community of Flamingo Beach in September of 2000 and according to their City Officials, they boast in having, “The Best Water in the World”.

Another 'Clear' benefit from using AquaSmarter Filters is the ionization properties generated by these Filters attracts Suspended Dust and Debris that continually enter your Pool and precipitates the coagulated dust particles to the bottom of the Pool. The ionized particles that are generated from these Filters, actually maintain a Sparkling Crystal-Clear appearance 24 hours a day, all year long.  AquaSmarter provides a Healthier environment for your Family and is a completely safe form of Water Conditioning.

Testing for the presence of Ionization is quite simple as there are 3-distinctive ways to Test for Adequate Ionization Saturation.

1. The Quality of the Water will maintain a 'Rich Bluish' appearance.
2. The Quality of the Water will maintain a 'Soft and Silky' Feel to the Touch.
3. The Quality of the Water will maintain 'Sweet, Clean and Soft' Taste.
4. The Surface of the Water will maintain a ‘Sparkling Clear’ appearance.
5. You will actually ‘See, 'Feel and even Taste’ the AquaSmarter Difference.

We have found that the 'Watersafe® Rapid Bacteria Test Strips' offers an inexpensive Do-it-yourself (20-minute) Bacteria Test Kit quite useful for Testing Potability.  Click to visit their website

"I finally had my fill of Baquacil. I later learned that it was in many ways as unhealthy as Chlorine."

Bromine has the atomic number 35. Like chlorine, it is a halogen and it easily reacts with other elements. In nature bromine can only be found in compounds.

These combinations are called bromides. Bromides are used to obtain pure bromine and to produce bromine products.

After fluorine, bromine is the most reactive element. It reacts with many different substances, is very corrosive and destructive on organic material. 

Bromine is a bleach. It is poisonous in fluid form and bromine vapor is destructive for the human skin, eyes and respiration tract. It causes serious burns.

A concentration of 1ppm can cause eye watering and when inhalation of concentrations below 10ppm occurs, one starts to cough and the respiration tracts are irritated.

Bromine concentrations around 0.5 mg/L in swimming pools cause eye and mucous membrane irritation and can lead to odor nuisance.  Bromine is used as a disinfectant, because it is harmful for microorganisms. When organic bromine enters surface waters, it has negative effects on the health of water fleas, fishes, lobsters and algae.

Bromine (Br2) is not used in drinking water treatment where as AquaSmarter is used for Water Treatment.  Bromine reacts far too quickly with organic substances, and no residue will remain. Bromine gives drinking water a terrible medicine-like taste. Bromine should only be used in emergency cases.

Bromine is very reactive. In order to maintain an adequate disinfection, the amount of bromine that is added must be very high. Bromine aggressively reacts with metals and it is a corrosive material.  Security measures should be taken when bromine is transported, stored or used.

AquaSmarter™ actually 'replaces' the need to Baquacil however, if you prefer maintaining your Pool with Baquacil or your Salt (Chlorine) Generator, you can however, if you prefer not to, you only need to gradually filter out this product or turn off/down your Salt Generator which will be replaced by the properties of AquaSmarter™ Ionization.

AquaSmarter is designed as a Bacterial and Viral Disinfectant as well as a Coagulant used to precipitate Dust, Debris and Metals such as Iron.  AquaSmarter Ionization is effective against more then 650 different types of bacteria and viruses. One of the most difficult and dangerous one is the famous Legonella. Ionisation is very effective against this type of bacteria. Also important to know is that the two most effective ways to remove and prevent the growth of a biofilm in distribution networks are Ionisation and Chlorine dioxide. We have studies about these subjects and are willing to share this with you if needed. You can find more then enough literature about this also on the internet.  80% of microbiology control in water is related to the growth or presence of a biofilm.

Since Jacuzzi’s produce (incubate) as much as 10x more Bacteria and Virus Colonies as opposed to ambient Temperate (room temperature) Swimming Pools.  For Jacuzzi’s, unlike ambient temperature Swimming Pools, Bacteria and Virus ‘thrive’.  Due to the increased amount of Bacterial and Viral growth in Heated water, Jacuzzi need a minimum of One-Capsule per each 500-gallons. Therefore, we’ve designed our AquaSmarter Ionizing Capsules to produce enough ‘concentrated’ Ionization to Safely Disinfect your Jacuzzi from Harmful Bacteria and Viruses.

During the First AquaSmarter month, we suggest that you keep track of your progress by using our 30-Day AquaSmarter History Report.  After the first few days, your Pool or Jacuzzi will seem to maintain itself and the rest will be quite easy.  AquaSmarter Ionizing properties have no effect on either raising or lowering the pH however, Ionization does require that your pH for ambient temperature pools remain close to Neutral (below 7.4) and below 7.6 for Heated Pools or Jacuzzi's.

There are basically only Three (simple) 'Keys' to maintaining a AquaSmarter Pool or Jacuzzi:
1.  Maintain the pH near 'neutral' (below 7.4) and for Heated Pools/Jacuzzi's, between 7.4 - 7.6
2.  Maintain Good Circulation by back washing at least twice a week and run your Pump 7-8 hours and Change the components in your (sand or membrane) Filter as required.
3.  When 'New Water' is added (rain or refilling) by more than 1/4" as new water is generally contaminated, add a little chlorine 1.0ppm for the day. 

 

AquaSmarter  vs. the Competition

Ecosmarte (www.ecosmarte.com) as any 'Electrical' Ionizing Systems require ‘110v Electrical Current’ and of which I would not ‘Swim’ in (Electricity and Water do not mix) and is not a practical, easy or Safe choice. Unlike AquaSmarter Ionizing Filters, these Systems require ‘Electricity’ require both a Qualified Electrician and a Plumber to install. Most require High Concentrations of Salt to be added to the Pool which electrically, produces/manufactures Chlorine and these Systems are also very expensive. An average pool will cost between $1,200.00-$4,500.00 (plus installation) and the ‘Submersible 110v - 12v Electrodes’ will need to be changed every 3-4 months.

Other Electrical Ionizers, http://www.sunshinepool.com/ion1.html also require a 'Direct' 110Volt Electricity and Special Installation (Qualified Electrician and Plumber) which needs to be converted to 12v before wiring this Electrical Current directly into the Pool Water.

These Ionizing Systems require hundreds of pounds of Salt to be added to the pool and constantly added to maintain salt levels every 3-4 months. These electrical Ionizing Systems generate CHLORINE by converting Sodium (SALT) to Bromide and then to Chlorine.  They don’t eliminate Chlorine, they actually make CHLORINE.

There are only a few (non-electrical) Ionizing Systems on the Market that do not require electricity, 'Nature2' (www.Nature2.com), AquaSmarter Ionizing Filters and 'Floatron' (www.floatron.com) which is a device that Floats on the surface of the Pool and requires ‘constant’ Sunlight to operate.

Nature2 does not require Electricity to operate. The Nature2 System incorporates a housing that requires the Pool's Return Water-Line Tube to be Drilled and the Devise is Clamped on to the hole that's Drilled into the Tube. Because of its Design, Nature2 only Operates when the Pump is running and unlike AquaSmarter which is remains submerged in the Skimmer, Nature2 offers no accumulated Ionization.

"Floatron" is a 'Floating' Solar Powered Ionizer that depends on Solar Power to generate electrical current to drive it's Probes which are submerged below this device. There are two problems associated with this device. One is that does not generate enough Ionization as claimed and the other is because it's usually in one area 'downwind' of the pool, what little Ions it does produce, remains concentrated in only one area. Andrew Arata who is manufacturing a Liquid Ionization 'Disinfectant' (Axenohl) headed the Floatron Research who commented that because this device is generally pushed and remains Downwind of the pool. The problem he has found with a Floating Solar Powered Ionizer is that it is free to move around the pool thus leaving 'Ion Pockets' where it generally remains which is predominantly downwind of the pool which and does not allow for Ion Distribute throughout the pool. In other words, this System will not 'Ionize' the entire pool as it most prevalently remains where the Wind pushes it - Downwind.

Ions need to be circulated and if left without Circulation, the System fails. Floatron and Nature2 cannot generate enough Ionization needed to maintain a Residue or enough Saturation for their System to work properly and with respect to Nature2 it only works when the Pump is on which is why their Systems 'needs' a considerable amount of Chlorine.

AquaSmarter requires NO Electricity or Special Plumbing or Chemicals other then Muriatic Acid used to 'Reduce' the pH and a small amount of Chlorine when New (Contaminated) Water is Added or if the Pool/Jacuzzi is Frequented and especially by Children (Pee).

Unlike the Electrical (110v) Ionizers which most require the use and constant maintenance of adding a lot of Salt, AquaSmarter requires No Electricity, Plumbing or Salts (Salt is converted to Chlorine) to operate and is Simply replaced Yearly.

Since AquaSmarter is constantly submerged (in the Skimmer), it 'always' produces Ionization and when the pump is turned on, the concentrated collection of Ions that have built up in the Skimmer are immediately Injected into the Pool - Evenly and Throughout by means of the Pools 'Return-Jets' and are mixed throughout the rest of the Pool or Potable Water Reserve (tank) and mixes with the existing Ions that are lest in residue. Therefore, there is no lack of Ionization and is distributed throughout the Pool on a daily basis.

AquaSmarter is a 3" Submersible Capsule that links together when more then 1 is needed and is Simply Placed into the Skimmer or anywhere where is remains submerged, and constantly produces Ionization while submerged and remains active in the Skimmer allowing the Ions to accumulate. Ions produced by AquaSmarter has a Useful Life of 1-year which means these Ions produced by this Devise can be Bottled and Stored for up to 1-year.

AquaSmarter maintains its Ionizing Properties 24-hours a day as long as it is submersed in water and when the pool pump is turned off, the Ions will then accumulate in the skimmer basket (where the AquaSmarter Filters are located). Ionization is re-injected and circulated into the Pool when the pump is turned and remains on.

The obvious difference with the AquaSmarter System is that the AquaSmarter Filters are simply placed into the Water and continually produces ionization which is distributed throughout the pool. When used in a Swimming Pool, circulation is achieved by means of the Return-Jets. For Potable Water, circulation is achieved by water entering the Tank and when it is consumed.

As you can see, all of these ‘Ionizing’ Systems for the exception of Nature2 or the AquaSmarter Ionizing Filters, either require a Source for Electricity, Special Installation or as noted with Nature2 and Floatron, are not nearly as effective as the AquaSmarter's Submersible Capsule and none of these Ionizing Systems are recommended for Potable (Consumable) Water except for the AquaSmarter Water Conditioning System.

The AquaSmarter Philosophy and the Success of our Company was built on the "KISS Principal”. Keep it Simple and as you 'clearly' see, the AquaSmarter Filters are Simple to install, Inexpensive and is Very Easy to use.  In my opinion and years of having a Swimming Pool and a Jacuzzi, the AquaSmarter is 'Simply' the Best CHLORINE Alternative as compared to any other System available on the Market today.

Unlike these other Ionizing Generators as mentioned above, AquaSmarter is now being used to 'Condition' the Drinking Water for Municipalities.

AquaSmarter™ Filters are Guaranteed to last for 1-Full Year. 

As part of the human nature, being skeptical about everything new and knowing therefore that education it is an important factor to effectively overcome the users common questions and concerns we make available the answers. Find below the most common questions specific to the science of the AquaSmarter™ technology we collected during the past 8 years.

That is Correct.  AquaSmarter™ Filters require 'no' Electricity to produce Ionization

A few but not many have commented regarding our AquaSmarter™. Follow our 'Easy to Use' Instructions and you too will absolutely Love the way your Pool will Feel with our Ionizing Filters.

If you prefer, you can remove your AquaSmarter Ionizing Filters during your Winter Season and store them in a Dry place.  Once the Filters are taken out of the Water, they will Hibernate until they are reintroduced back into the water.

If you have a 3-month Pool Season for example, your AquaSmarter Filters will essentially last for 4-Full Years.  When you replace your AquaSmarter Filters back into your Pool, you’ll only need to re-Ionize your pool as you did when you first received your AquaSmarter Filters.

When you decide to Winterize your AquaSmarter Pool, simply store your AquaSmarter Capsules in a Dry place during your Winter Season then, simply place them back into your Pool when Spring nears.  When you Close your Pool for the Winter Season follow the instructions outlined below very carefully.  The following eMail is from one of our Canadian Customers.

"My name is Kent Douglas and several years ago I ran into a great product called AquaSmarter which I use in my pool and have been for 3 years now. I knew I had to be a part of this so I have been communicating with AquaSmarter for over 3 years. Our intent is to market their product here in Canada."

To properly winterize a swimming pool, the owner should begin by making sure that the pool water is clean of debris. Leaves, bugs, pine needles and other similar items should be vacuumed or removed from the pool by use of the filter, or by using an extension pole and net to skim the water. A good time to begin the winterizing process is in the fall, just as the colors change, but before the leaves have a chance to fall into your pool.

A chemical treatment to your pool is essential. A mixture of winter chlorine, winter alkalizer, and winter powder will insure that your pool stays clean over the winter and is ready for use in the late spring when the warmer weather arrives. Many manufacturers supply ready-made, winterizing kits that contain the chemicals mentioned above. Each manufacturer has different directions so make sure you follow the exact directions on your winterizing kit. Essentially, these chemicals will put extremely high levels of chlorine, alkaline, and algaecide in the water to prepare for the winter months ahead. Some of these chemicals mandate that the pool filter be turned on while the chemicals are added. Make certain you follow this direction.

Once the chemicals have been added, the pool water is ready for a slight draining to appropriate levels, if required by your pool manufacturer. Once the water is several inches below the level of the skimmer and output holes, you can cease draining and remove the filter hoses attached to the skimmer and output hole. If draining is not required, then cover the filter skimmer and output hole with the appropriate covers. This cover will prevent water from leaking and ice from forcing its way out. With the covers in place, remove the filter hoses. Open the drain at the bottom of the filter to let any water in the filter outlet. Store the filter and hoses in a garage or basement for the duration of the winter. Leaving a filter outside over the winter will lead to serious damage, especially if you fail to drain the filter.

The last item needed for a proper winterizing is a pool cover. However, before stretching the cover across the pool, you should install a floatation device in the center of the pool. This device can be a car or truck inner-tube or a large inflatable winter pillow sold by pool suppliers for this very purpose. The float serves two functions. First, it balances the rainwater and ice sure to form on your pool's cover over the winter. Secondly, The area around the float will not freeze over the winter and will allow the ice to push inward toward the float, rather than outward towards the pool wall. This will ease the tension on the pool walls, a condition that can lead to support problems later.

Finally, stretch the cover across the pool and over the float using two or three others for help. Once the cover is in place, you should run a sturdy wire through the holes that run along the outer seam of the cover. Pull the wire tight using a hand wench or similar tool so that the cover fits snugly around the pool. Failure to properly secure the cover will result in the pool cover coming off during high winds or heavy rains. Your pool is now ready to battle the winter elements, and will be ready for a sparkling clean opening come spring.

I hope this information was helpful.

 

Corrosion:  Most Pool Owners agree that AquaSmarter Replaces the need for (corrosive) Chemicals therefore the Surface, Pump and Equipment lasts 'Considerably' longer.

The Ionization System provides certain unique advantages over traditional "chemical only" water treatment. Unlike most halogens and biocides, ions provide a stable, measurable disinfecting residual that is unaffected by water quality, heat or evaporation.

The Ionization System does not accelerate corrosion rates, as do most oxidizing agents, and can actually reduce the use of these chemicals up to 90%. Savings in chemical use, plant preservation and labor offer the end user rapid pay backs.

The handling and storage of potentially hazardous materials are also greatly reduced, and therefore so is the associated liability of handling Hazardous Corrosive Chemicals.


Staining:  The 'maximum' Cu (Copper) saturation level that AquaSmarter Ionizing Filters produce is 0.15ppm which is 85% less than EPA 1.3ppm Maximum Copper Saturation Standards however, excessive amounts of Copper, can deposit itself on these surfaces, giving a "Roman-Tub" blue-green appearance, which by the way, isn't too bad to look at as many Pool Owners actually prefer the blue-green color which was commonly prevalent in Mineral Baths.

AquaSmarter, maintains such a low Copper Saturation Limit (Less than 0.15ppm - or 85% lower than EPA’s Maximum Standards for Potable Water) that the amount of Copper allowed to permeate the pool is minimal and barely noticeable.

Heavy metals left in the pool:  Heavy metals play very important roles as cofactors in ionization, stabilization of protein structures, electron transfer and water ionization. Certain heavy metals like Lead, Copper, Mercury and Cadmium however, are toxic even at very low concentrations according to EPA Maximum Potable Limits in excess of 1.3 ppm.  AquaSmarter maintains a Copper Saturation Limit of ‘Less than 0.15ppm which is 85% lower than EPA’s Maximum Standards for Potable Water.

Many have asked us, "Should water chemistry be a concern (water hardness, total dissolved solids, total alkalinity) in a AquaSmarter pool?"   A.  Water Hardness is caused by water that contains Calcium therefore Chlorine that also contains Calcium only adds to Water Hardness.  Total Dissolved Solids (TDS) is from dust, dirt, metals, minerals and debris that remains Suspended in the water.  One of the Many Benefits from AquaSmarter is from the Ionization Properties that is generated from AquaSmarter as Ionization Magnetically ‘Coagulates’ (attract) this suspended/dissolved material and Precipitates it to the bottom of the Tank, Well or Pool

Chlorine SHOCK is an 'Oxidizer' that is generally used to "Dissolve" Organic Material.

After AquaSmarter 'Neutralizes' Microscopic Organic Material, the Dead Organic Material is left to either Filter out or to be 'Oxidized'.

If you do find the need to occasionally SHOCK your Pool or Jacuzzi, we strongly suggest not using your Pool or Jacuzzi until your Chlorine level has diminished below 1.0ppm

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